Riflescope and reticle
Sighting Devices
As we’ll cover later, shotgun shooting is reflex shooting – where you aim using your entire body, and the weapon must fit you. If the firearm is only intended for shotgun shooting, all you really need is the bead at the end of the barrel.
On combination weapons and when shotguns are used for bullet shooting (slug and more), many choose to equip the gun with some kind of low-magnification scope or illuminated red dot sight. If a shotgun is also intended for bullet shooting, it is often fitted with both front sight and rear sight – just like a basic rifle setup.
In general, sighting devices are mostly a matter of importance for rifles.
Front Sight and Rear Sight
Until the mid-1960s, it was common to use open sights. At the front of the barrel was a bead, and at the rear, a metal plate with a notch. As scopes became more widespread, the use of open sights nearly disappeared.
However, some hunters still prefer open sights in certain situations. This often applies to large game and tight situations where you may need to aim and shoot quickly – for example, during tracking hunts for wild boar or, for dog handlers, when hunting moose or bear. An advantage is that you avoid issues with fog and moisture, as well as the added weight of a scope. In recent years, compact red dot sights with no magnification have also become popular, allowing you to shoot with both eyes open.
Optical Sights
Optical sights – or simply scopes – dominate among today’s hunters. They are unbeatable for precision shooting and assessing the target. Bright scopes with large objective lenses are extremely helpful for shooting in low light, such as at dusk, or when your eyesight isn’t as sharp.
When mounting a scope, there are essentially two components: the sight itself, and the mount. Mounts usually consist of a rail or base attached to the firearm. On this, rings and clamps for the scope are installed. You can also choose detachable mounts if you want to keep the option of using open sights. Remember, mounts add extra cost when purchasing and installing a scope.
Scopes are marked with their magnification and front lens diameter. For example, 3–10×45 means variable zoom from 3 to 10 times magnification and a 45 mm objective lens. Similarly, 8×56 means fixed 8x magnification with a 56 mm lens. Larger lenses offer better light transmission. Tube diameter (commonly 25 or 30 mm) also affects light intake and optical properties.
There are also excellent optical sights without any magnification. These are often used on combination weapons or when speed is critical and distances are short.
Many Reticle Types
The reticle (aiming point) inside a scope can come in many forms: crosshairs, dots, or illuminated points. It’s not always easy to choose – often it comes down to personal preference. Some reticles are illuminated and powered by batteries. Most still work even if the battery dies, which is crucial.
Scopes often allow for adjustment options. Some include quick adjustment dials for shooting at different ranges (or for different ammunition). It’s also desirable to have a rear focus adjustment to compensate for vision issues.
When Choosing a Scope, Consider the Following:
- Weight and size: For moving hunts, a smaller scope is easier to carry and less likely to bump into branches.
- Don’t overestimate magnification: High magnification can make aiming harder if the image shakes. Good shooting only comes with practice. Magnification alone can’t replace that.
- Choose the right reticle: Bold, clear reticles like the “heavy duplex” or “German #4” are good for quick shots in dark forests. Fine reticles with thin crosshairs are better for precision shooting when you have more time. It’s good if you can dim or turn off the illuminated reticle, as it can be distracting in some situations.